Three Capes Track

DAY 1

Finally I am on my way, in a flashy BMW (thanks to S) being driven towards airport for an onward journey to Hobart. My third visit to Tasmania. I should rather buy a yearly pass or something similar.

The sweetest voice of a little girl from right behind my seat kept me from napping during my flight. The flight was full, maybe because of school holidays.

    

~Port Arthur Historic Site~

At Hobart airport I enjoyed a cuppa whilst I waited to be picked up by Pennicott Wilderness Journey’s bus shuttle to Port Arthur. Sam arrives for the pick-up and offers to carry my bag into the bus and I delightfully hand it over. In the bus I meet Brianna, from US who has been travelling all over Australia since April. Good on her! Good 4 months of carrying her backpack and there I was happy to hand over mine to someone, mindful of carrying it for only 4 days!

Since we had ample time to get to the Pennicott cruise pick up point (that would drop us off at Denman’s Cove which is the start of the walk), Sam decided to show us a couple of look out points. Sam and Brianna chatted away. While I snapped away.

~When I go to bed, and struggle to sleep
I will play the sound of these waves, in my head
My favourite lullaby, from nature's shed~

We were then dropped off at the Port Arthur historic site where I met the other 6 walkers (So, just 7 people all up for the next few days! Perfect!). At the Historic site I spent a good 2 hours roaming around every part of the site and also did the 20 minute ferry ride. Perfect weather it seemed at the site.

But it turned a corner as soon as we hopped on the cruise. Light rain on a speed boat is as good as heavy rain. I had done this cruise during my first visit on a great weather day but also when there were quite some swells in the water which made our family sit at the very back of the boat for less impact. But this time, there were no swells despite winter time. Water was so still, and there I was thinking I was brave enough to sit at the front of the boat this time to enjoy the thrill of chopping on the waves!

The rain meant getting my rain wear out. I did not overdo my shopping after all. Looks like I would use all that I am painstakingly carrying. A bit out of rhythm walk today because of some poor decisions to carry two bags, one on front and one on back. But a short walk to our first nights’ stay at Surveyors.

~Denman's Cove~

~Surveyors Cabin~

DAY 2

Still getting used to this sweet silence all around, this cold and fresh air! My long date with nature, finally coming to life.

I wake up and head straight to the kitchen to turn on the only available heater. I place my legs right in front of the fire and let the warmth spread. No rain forecast for today. Phew!

The view from the kitchen at Surveyors is that of Cape Raoul. It was wet outside on the deck from the rain last night, else I could have enjoyed a cuppa outside. I keep to myself whilst the others make their breakfast.

No rush today. Walk from Surveyors to Munro is about 11k. At the very start of the walk, a wallaby greets me with a ‘No worries mate’ look. I smile and do my customary task – snap a picture!

Today’s viewing menu from Arthurs Peak has Mt Brown and Crescent Bay. Being on Telstra network I share my snaps straightaway with my folks and then remind myself it is connectivity to self that should be strongest wi-fi here!

Today being the first day, I keep thinking how far along the other hikers are and if I will catch up to them and whether I am too slow to reach the next cabin before sunset. But soon I get the hang of it. There is no other track really to get lost and based on my previous walking experiences I felt I should be fine time-wise. So, I jump straight back to my task – snapping pictures and tried something new, posing for pictures!

I stop for lunch at this story seat called ‘Love in the woods’ and wondered how many people got inspired by these words at this very spot :) Anyway, I eat my puliyogre in the woods. My lunch for all days! Chocolate block for dessert. Stomach is heavy, but the mind is light. The rest of the walk is uneventful, except I meet a couple of rangers on the way who were doing the rounds – checking for trash and other maintenance tasks.

At the cabin, for the rest of the night, I just lie down on the bench in front of my room and read until the sun sets and stops warming me, I chat with Paul for a bit, one of the walkers who has dipped himself in the Antarctic ocean. I also played board games and UNO with Paul and Suzanne.

The rangers usually come over and talk about the next day’s walk. I especially liked the ranger in this cabin, Nicko. Nicko got right into some sort of passionate character during his talk. He so reminded me of John Muir himself and also this boy Christopher McCandless, the vagabond hitch-hiker and the unfortunate camper of the now famous ‘The Magic Bus’.

Looking forward to more magic tomorrow.

DAY 3

  

~When I go to bed, and feel a slumber
The shine in his rise, I will remember~

The weather was unbelievably generous. A perfect cloudless blue sky with slight winds for the longest walk! I could leave my beastly backpack at Munro. This itself made me have a spring in my step. At Munro, the toilets are tucked away from the cabins but they are right next to the heli pad. So, owing to the weather I woke up early to watch the sunrise from here as this is the best spot for this ritual, at Munro. All morning rituals in one spot!

Sunrise was like business as usual for the sun. A neat spread of orange marmalade on the vast sea. Boundless beauty for eyes that are lucky to see and a heart that yearns for such simple joy.

Next up was another ritual that I wanted to experience. Showering in the open on a winter morning.Hot water and cold breeze. Shower is fun when it becomes a luxury.

This walk felt so easy. I especially liked the story seats. They are so cool and such a great idea to share snippets of history. I highly recommend reading the Encounters on the Edge booklet. Makes your walk all the more enjoyable and you will know what to look out for and when you find something from the book during the walk, I promise you will get excited, like a child on the cliffs with no one around to spoil the fun and no need to share the block of chocolate in the bag.

The more closer you get to The Blade, the more exciting you feel. So many spots to stop on the way to feel the awesomeness of the Tasman Sea and Island.

I have to mention the Rangers. They are so dedicated. Mostly young people who know where they belong! The Blade is beautiful, rugged, no railings or safety structures. Just sheer drops that offer sheer thrill. On good weather days the Rangers just enjoy a run from the cabin to the top of the Blade and back. Yup, half a marathon of trail running. Must be exhilarating more than exhausting!

At the Seal Spa, I am pretty sure I heard a seal from down below. No orcas or whales spotted unfortunately.

~Adrift but astute
Small, but significant~

I head back to Munro dizzy from heights but also happiness. With the backpack back on my back I walk the final few kilometres to Retakunna.

I was far from the faintest imagination of what was in store at Retakunna. After an early dinner, I stepped out of the warm kitchen cabin to make a call to folks back home and was just beginning to feel my hands go cold when I happened to look up to the sky and my jaw dropped at the sight of the most stunning night sky I have ever seen. The milky way just twinkling away silently. A cloudless sky but a star lit one!A few shooting stars and a million other bright stars all dazzling in their own glory. How blessed I felt! I simply lay flat on the deck bench, despite the cold and watched this spectacular show until I felt satisfied. The twinkle in the stars and the twinkle in my eyes surely matched.I literally thanked my stars this night!

DAY 4

~When I go to bed and I feel lost
    I will place my hand on my chest
      To feel the love I felt in these woods~

An early start today. A good 14k to the end of Cape Hauy and then to Fortescue Bay which marks the end of this walk. The weather was cloudy which I later realised was a blessing!

I have one word for today's walk - STEPS, lots of it! In to the woods, out the woods, up the cliffs, down the cliffs. The walk from cabin towards Mt. Fortesuce was uphill straight away. Lots of panting and water breaks. Chocolate, water, breathe, walk - repeat.

The walk through the rain forest has its own magic. So subtly enticing. Mainly ferns, mossy tree trunks and wind rustling through tall eucalyptus. The track just winds through the forests' simple charm like a welcome guest in their green territory.

~When I go to bed and feel very empty
I will walk every step, all over again, in my head,
until I feel full again!~

Finally I reached the half way mark and also the junction where you can leave your backpack and head to Cape Hauy with a day pack. 5 minutes into this walk I realised why they suggest leaving our back pack. S.T.E.P.S! But very soon I begin to see the views on either side. At the end of       this tough mudder walk is the reward - the Totem Pole and    Candlestick, standing strong and sturdy ready to give you    goose-bumps. Only, I also need to be strong and sturdy to  view them from the tip of Cape Hauy (there are safety    railings here).

On the way back I felt so overwhelmed, I turned around to face the view, popped my day pack to the side, went down on my knees, touched my forehead to the ground and kissed it. One humble heavy salutation,one gratitude heavy kiss to nature that never ceases to amaze me. I thanked everyone and everything for what I have experienced on this journey, in the last few days. The pain in my knees and shoulders felt insignificant. It was the precise 
moment when pain and pleasure said hello to each 
other through tears streaming down my cheeks.

I headed back to collect the backpack at the junction and nearly staggered my way to Fortescue Bay. This bit of the walk is open to general public, so you will see a few people on your way. A bit uneasy after a few days of hardly anybody. I got a bit annoyed heading back to civilization.

  

At Fortescue Bay I chilled my sore feet at the beach. Cold salty water on hot sweaty feet. Just what I needed. I placed my boots on the sand, facing the beach, clipped the TCT tag on it and snapped a precious picture, summing up my journey.

At the Pennicott office back at Hobart, while I sat waiting for my phone to charge (because it could not cope any longer with my frantic photo capturing), the guy that owns and runs these wilderness cruises (Rob) appeared with his pet dog, Chilli. He was kind enough to chat with me and check on how I went with the walk and then he let me pat Chilli. Chilli is 9 weeks old and kept licking Rob.

Tassie is small geographically but big on everything nature. I am guaranteed tears in Tassie, happy tears, every single visit.  

~When I go to bed, and feel very overwhelmed
I will picture this sea, and learn from how much she gives~

~Forever and for now, there is a sacred shrine waiting to be found
   Distant but dear, there is a beacon so bright, waiting to be held
Calm and collected, come closer, come alone 
        Alone is endearing, alone is enlightening . Alone is peace, alone is power 
Alone is clarity, alone is calm. Alone is trust, alone is truth ~